The Grinds Program

This program can be done using Edge Lifts or Finger Curls. Each method has advantages and disadvantages, which we will cover in more detail later on. Pick whichever method you prefer, or whichever best fits your training setup. OPTION 1: EDGE LIFTING Perform reps by lifting weights off the ground using a loading pin. Each rep should take 2-3 seconds, with a 1-2 second pause between, similar to any other weight lifting exercise. Maintain strict form with your grip position, and bring the weight to a lockout for each rep. OPTION 2: FINGER CURLS Perform reps by actively flexing your fingers into the edge against a fixed object, such as a sling around your foot. Each rep should take 2-3 seconds, with a 1-2 second pause between. Attempt to hit your target load just as your fingers reach your target grip position.
TO LIFT OR TO FLEX?
There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. First, Edge Lifts can be done using any grip type, whereas Finger Curls work best with variations of the half crimp and full crimp. One advantage of Finger Curls is that they tend to translate better to “active” finger strength. If you rely on friction when you climb and have trouble “owning” holds, the Finger Curls method may be especially helpful. Ultimately, do whichever you prefer, or whichever method works best for you. 
OPTIONAL VARIATION: RPE
If equipment is limited, this program can be done using RPE, or Rate of Perceived Exertion. For example, rather than lifting or curling 80% of your one-rep-max (1RM) on DAY A, you can throw a sling around your foot and pull against the edge or curl your fingers into the edge until you reach approximately 8 out of 10 effort, and perform your allotted number of reps. For DAY B, do the same thing but at 6 out of 10 effort. All you need is a NUG and a sling to do your GRINDS.
THE PROGRAM
You will be training 2x days per week for a 4x week cycle, in addition to your regular climbing. Day A will be focused on your primary grips and will be the high-intensity day. Day A should be done when you are fresh, after one or more rest days. On Day A, begin with your preferred warmup, then do your GRINDS, and then move on to hard bouldering or oher climbing training. Day B will be focused on your accessory grips and will be a lower intensity and higher volume day.
This can be done at the start of any climbing day. You do not have to be perfectly fresh for Day B, but aim for two or more days between Day A and B.
START OF WEEK 5
Evaluate your last 4 weeks, and ask yourself the following
questions:
1. Did I own all of my sets and reps?
2. Did the loads feel easier in weeks 3 and 4 than in week 1?
3. Do my fingers feel healthy? No tweaks?
4. Do I feel fully recovered after my deload week?
If yes to all of the above:
● Add 5-10% to your previous loads, and repeat the program
● OR, retest your 1RM to calculate loads for your next cycle
If no to questions 1 or 2:
● Repeat the program using the same loads
● Make sure you are resting enough etc...

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Week 1

Week 2

Week 3

Week 4

Each rep should take 2-3s, 11-2s between reps. Rest 3min between all sets. if using rpe use rpe8

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